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#Florida Vin Check | April 2012

Buying a Home After a Foreclosure - How Long Do You Have to Wait?

Florida Vehicle History Report - Buying a Home After a Foreclosure - How Long Do You Have to Wait?.
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There seem to be a lot of misconceptions about how long a foreclosure can stay on the credit report of former homeowners, how long the foreclosure affects their ability to borrow negatively, and how long they will be unable to purchase a new home. Some borrowers believe, mistakenly, that they will never be able to buy another house, qualify for a car loan, or even get a credit card at a decent interest rate just because they lost a house. While the foreclosure will have serious negative consequences, the myths surrounding the issue can be much worse than the actual effects.

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The worst news is that a foreclosure will remain on a credit report for the full seven year reporting period. Although borrowers can request the bank to remove the record at any time and delete mention of the foreclosure, banks are rarely interested in doing this, and there is little that could force them to do so. Thus, former homeowners will most likely have to deal with having the negative mark on their credit report for nearly a decade, although its most damaging effects will be felt in the earliest years after the loss of the home.

This is because the longer in time the homeowners are removed from the initial foreclosure, the less of a drag it will be on their credit scores. Missed mortgage payments and then a foreclosure filing can instantly drop a FICO score into the low 500s or even the high 400s by the time the sheriff sale and eviction occur. But as time goes on, as long as the homeowners work on repairing their credit history by paying off any other debts, using borrowed money wisely in the future, and disputing negative or old information contained on the report, their score will begin to improve despite the foreclosure.

When borrowers would be able to qualify for a new mortgage after the loss of a house is almost entirely dependent on the effort they put into repairing their credit and establishing a new, on time payment history. They may be able to apply for a competitive loan within a couple of years after the foreclosure if they are able to show excellent credit since then. Saving up for a true down payment of 15-20% of the purchase price of the home is also important to the banks when considering whether or not to offer a housing loan. But homeowners who focus on credit repair may be able to qualify for a new loan within 2-3 years after foreclosure, while other borrowers may have to wait 4-5 before their credit repairs itself enough naturally.

Of course, if homeowners are able to stop foreclosure before the lawsuit, sheriff sale, and eviction have completely gone through, they will find it much easier to obtain any new credit later on. But, unfortunately, this may not be possible for some borrowers who have no other choice than to give up trying to save their home. The best they can do after this is to work on their credit report and make sure they get a fresh start after losing the property. Although it may take at least a few years to qualify for any new mortgage, this period of time should be used to pay off other debt, establish on time payment history, and save up for a down payment on a new home. While the effects of foreclosure can be severely negative, borrowers also have many options in mitigating the worst consequences to their ability to qualify for credit in the future.

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Calculate Pain And Suffering The Right Way And Settle Your Car Accident

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How to calculate pain and suffering? This is a difficult and controversial issue. When you are in a car accident, the insurance company wants to get a written document that releases any and all claims against the person that caused your damages and injuries. To get that release, the insurance
adjuster must compensate you adequately.

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You are entitled to special damages (medical bills, wage loss, medicine, etc.) and general damages (pain and suffering, loss of consortium, physiological injuries, etc.) Most of the time, calculating the Special Damages is not very difficult and there is not much debate over the value of the medical bills, wage loss, and other medical expenses. You can add them all up and submit your receipts. However, calculating general damages, which includes pain and suffering, can be very difficult.

How much is your headache worth? Depends who you ask. If you ask the insurance adjuster, she will tell you about . If I ask you, then it is probably worth much more than that.

Personal injury attorneys use the medical bills or all "special damages" as a way to calculate general damages. Some multiply the medical bills by two, other by three or even four times (depends in your
jurisdiction). This is only a rule of thumb. The insurance adjuster will fight you and will tell you that that is not an accurate way to calculate pain and suffering. There are no laws that will give you a formula to calculate the value of the injury.

Simply multiplying your medical bills will not yield an accurate number. You could have an injury with medical bills of ,000 but the pain and suffering be worth much more than three or even four times that value. For example, a fifteen year old girl that suffers a cut in her face, leaving a scar from her eye to her chin. Medical bills for stitches and cleaning the wound might not be very much, but the psychological injury of growing up with such injury could be worth much more.

Multiplying the medical bills is not very accurate when assessing the value of pain and suffering, however it can guide you. Remember that there are many more claim than just "pain and suffering" in a car accident. You can ask for loss of consortium, loss of earning capacity, loss of quality of life, etc. For a detailed list and explanation of each type of claim, visit http://www.auto-insurance-claim-advice.com/bodily-injury-claim.html. All of these claims can add to a lot of money. Most people forget to ask for any of those types of damages. Insurance companies do not explain the process and they just want a release for any and all claims, including all those damages you forgot or did know to ask for. Insurance companies do this on purpose. Be aware.

Insurance adjusters are ready to tell you that the value of the injury is separated from the accident itself. They are trained to argue that they are settling for the neck pain, not the fact that the total loss settlement
was low. They try to narrow the scope of the settlement. For example, they will tell you that the fact that the driver that hit was drunk is not accounted for because they are looking at pain and suffering. Your pain will not be more or less because someone else was drunk. If you were hit at the same speed and the
same conditions by a sober person, your pain and suffering would be the same (same impact, same injury).

The insurance adjuster would be correct; the pain would be the same. But remember that what the insurance company is doing is "buying your lawsuit". Would the fact that a driver hit you while intoxicated increase the value a jury would award you? I think the answer is probably yes.

To get the most out for your pain and suffering, use the value of your medical bills, the circumstances surrounding the accident, the type of injury, similar cases jury awards, and all the bodily injury claims you
can make. Double check every argument the insurance adjuster is making. Make sure you are getting a fair treatment.

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Thinking of Buying a Used Mobile Home? 18 Steps For What to Watch Out For and How to Do it Right

Florida Dmv - Thinking of Buying a Used Mobile Home? 18 Steps For What to Watch Out For and How to Do it Right.
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If you are thinking of buying a used mobile home, there are things you need to watch out for. Buying a mobile home is not like buying a regular stick built. You need to know what to watch out for before you buy a used mobile home. Here are 10 things to watch out for when buying a used mobile home. These tips will guide you to make the right decision and/or how to negotiate in your best interest. Better safe than sorry. My seven years of selling used mobile homes has taught me a lot. I am now passing on that information to you so that you can make an educated choice.

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1. Age. If your finances are tight, do not buy anything older than 1977. That is the cutout time for good financing and also the year a lender can determine if the used mobile home is a HUD home. 1976 and older were registered with DMV and not built to code. Therefor, lenders requires a 20% down on a 1976 or older. The term will be no longer than 15 years and the rate will be somewhere around 11-12%. That is a lot to pay. 1977 or newer requires only 10% down, you can get 20 years of financing and the rate is 1-2% lower. That is a much better deal. If the home is newer, the rate can be as low as 8%. Preferable, look for a home that is no more than 15 years old.

2. Park. Not all parks are approved by the lenders. Before making an offer to purchase, get yourself loan approved for that particular park. If the space rent is too high or if there are too many foreclosures in the park, lenders might say no to financing.

3. Rent control. Is it or is it not? Most parks are but some are not. If not, make sure yo fully understand what kind of yearly increase the park will impose on you. You might not mind paying that extra increase per year but each time the space rent is raised, the value of your mobile home WILL go down. Its like a car, depreciating. Still, it beats renting an apartment with people above, below, left and right.

4. Crime. Does the park have a security program? Is the park patrolled regularly by a security patrol company? If not, you probably should stay away. Yes, it is true, all residents have to follow the rules and regulations but if there is no security, many things can happen. A security patrol is a deterrent, crime will go elsewhere. Call the park manager and inquire. You can also call the local police office and ask for a crime report. Strongly recommended.

5. Pets. What is the parks policy? Your 80 ldb golden retriever might have a VERY hard time getting approved. Same for your pitt bull or any other so called "vicious breed". Most parks will NOT approve them. There is only one park in the Santa Clarita Valley that will approve a large dog, even two. However, no "vicious breeds". How stupid. Recently, I had a dog trainer with good credit, a large down payment and a German shepherd. That dog was the most well trained German shepherd but no, considered "vicious". So are dobermans, boxers, pinchers, chows and a couple of more. Inquire with the park BEFORE looking at any used (or new) mobile home. Save yourself the time (and your agents) by finding out first.

6. Neighbors. Most people are nice. However, since you are going to be living in tight quarters (most mobile home spaces are small and set very closely together), go and talk to the neighbors. Both the ones next door and some a few doors down. The ones a few doors down are the ones that will tell you what REALLY is going on. Maybe the couple next door do not get along any more. Maybe there is an alcohol problem. Maybe the kids play too loud. You need to know. Drive by in the evening, hang around for a while. Do the same for the weekend. Spend an hour on a Saturday night, driving around the mobile home park, you will then now if this is a place for you.

7. Managers. Do they do a great job? Do they care? Do they make the residents follow the rules and regulations? Do they arrange get togethers every now and then? Any holiday dinners? Do they publish a newsletter to keep you updated? Do you feel welcome in their office? Most managers take great pride in their park and are happy to try to help you. Make sure that is the case.

8. Trash. An old toilet sitting at the end of a car port? Knee-high weeds? A car jacked up and being worked on in a carport? You do not want that. What you should want, is a clean, manicured park community where the residents take pride in their mobile homes and keeps their surroundings clean. A carport is not supposed to be used for storage (or a back yard). A shed is where you keep your excess belongings, period.

9. Mobile home values. Holding steady? Going up? Declining? Have your Realtor find out for you. Buying a used mobile home is very much like buying a used car. A seller can set any price but is it worth it? Please do not over-pay. If you need to finance your used mobile home, you are then in a much safer position. You are then required to pay for an appraisal to find out the REAL value of the mobile home. However, if you are planning to buy your mobile home for cash, watch out. No appraisal is required but I would recommend you pay the 0 to the appraiser. It could save you thousands. The choice is yours.

10. Health and Safety. What condition is the mobile home in? The basics should all be there. If not, it is the sellers responsibility to have it done. That includes;

A. Smoke alarms. Each bedroom needs one, that is the code. And, it needs to be working!

B. Water heater. Needs to be double-strapped and not with those tiny metal bands that has little wholes in them. Is there a pressure release valve? If it where to over-flow, does the pipe go underneath? Should not. It needs to extend out to the side of the skirting. Is the water heater closet dry-walled? Has to be. Any leaks?

C. Steps. Are they solid? No rips in the carpeting (trip hazard)? What about the railing? Is it loose? Can not be. How far apart are the rails? Should not be more than 4" so that a small child can NOT get stuck in between.

D. Cooling system. Does it work? It is not really a health and safety issue but if it were me, I would insist on it or ask for a reduction in price. Who wants to live in a used mobile home, maybe with metal siding as well, and summer comes around and it is 105 degrees outside.

E. The furnace. When was it last serviced and how dirty is the pad? Take a good look and make sure it works. Have someone come and take a look at it.

F. Plumbing. Any leaks? Should not. Run all faucets and look underneath.

G. Electrical. Does all the outlets and the switches work? Make sure they do. GFI's? You do not want the risk of being electrocuted. Both kitchen and bathrooms needs GFI plugs.

H. Roof. Any leaks? Look around carefully to see if there are any water stains in the ceilings or around the upper walls. How old is the roof?

I. Earthquake bracing. Does it have it? Bring a flashlight and open up the access door in the skirting. There should be (on a double wide mobile home), two in the front and two in the back. Compare them to the regular piers and jacks. Are they beefier? Bolted to the I-beam? They should be. Surprisingly enough, there are still some used mobile homes out there who do NOT have them. On top of that, it is not considered a health and safety issue and it is perfectly legal to sell a used mobile home WITHOUT them!

If you do buy a used mobile home without earthquake bracing and later on decides that it was not the smartest idea, a contractor will charge you about 00 to install them. Not cheap. If it does not have it, ask for a price reduction and then order the escrow company to set aside 00 to the contractor. At the close of escrow, your contractor will come out and install them for you. If you can have him install it the day BEFORE close of escrow even better. Because, if you just take a price reduction, you are going to be so busy moving and exited about your purchase of your mobile home. You'll "forget" about the bracing and end up buying new furniture instead!

Ideally, you should hire a health and safety inspector who KNOWS how to inspect a mobile home

8. Once you are park-approved, it is time to schedule your health & safety inspection. You are free to use any licensed health & safety inspector for your inspection or I can recommend several to you. Besides the health & safety inspection , I would strongly recommend you have an electrician look over the home. Sometimes, a regular h&s inspector can not really know what's going on. These inspections are not free and depending on who it is, they all charge slightly different. When we go to see the inspectors at your future home, please bring your check bock. Once the inspection is over, the inspector will go over his findings with you.

9. It is now 24-48 hours after that the health & safety inspection took place and now we are holding the report in our hands, going through it together. It is the sellers responsibility to cover any health & safety issues, such as electrical, plumbing, roof, smoke alarms, double-strapped water heater and so on. Anything cosmetic is just that, cosmetic and the seller does not have to do anything. However, you could always try to negotiate if you strongly feel there is something you want the seller to do and of course, I am there for you, every step of the way.

10. Termites? Pesky little critters and they are usually EVERYWHERE! We would absolutely want to have the home inspected for that too. We will get a written report with a diagram, showing their findings. Anything that they find that is classified as a SECTION I, has to be taken care of and hopefully, the seller is willing to do that. If not, it's on you. I have a very strong opinion in regards to termites. That is, if I were buying a home, why should I have to pay for somebody else termite problem? I never lived there. I did not invite them. So, why pay? On the other hand, if I got the home at a very good deal, I would probably pay for it. It is your decision and hopefully we will not run in to this problem if the seller gladly pays. SECTION 2 are recommendations from the termite inspector of things that will need attention in the future and are not items that has to be taken care of now. Termite inspections are paid through escrow.

11. Time to order your appraisal. An appraisal will be necessary if you are going to finance your purchase, the lender will require it. This is an expense that can not be financed and you will have to pay it upfront either by meeting the appraiser at your future home or by simply writing the check to the appraiser and let me handle it for you.

12. Your loan conditions. When you first got pre-approved, we submitted certain papers to the lender. There might also be additional paperwork they are asking for and whatever that is, now is the time for us to do that.

13. Your home has now been appraised and hopefully, it did appraise. If not, we might need to either re-negotiate with the seller or you might have to come up with a larger down payment, whatever is the case or we might have to look for another home for you.

14. Your loan documents are now ready to be signed and there will also be additional paperwork from escrow to sign, such as hazardous disclosures. We live in earthquake country, there are massive rains sometimes and we get flooded. You might be close to a prison or maybe an airport. These things are hazardous, we all live with them. Escrow wants you to know this,and you already do. When you go to sign all this papers, please bring your cashiers check for the balance of the down payment. Before you do, I will give you an estimated closing statement so that you know how much to bring. There will be an overage, meaning escrow will ask for a little bit more, just in case. We do not want to delay closing escrow because they are a few dollars short (maybe they needed to over-night a package twice).

15. Time for us to do a final inspection of the home. We want to make sure that everything that needed to be taken care of, has been done. We will do a final walk-through together.

16. You are now going to go to your appointment with the park to sign your lease, read and sign the park rules & regulations and pay your space rent and deposit. This takes about 1 ½ hour. If this is in the middle of the month, escrow will pro-rate the space rent. Parks do not take partial payment, only full. The deposit is refundable after paying your space rent on time for 12 consecutive months. You can then, in writing, ask for it back.

17. The loan has now funded, the money has been received by escrow, every single piece of paper has been signed by all parties involved and escrow is now closed. CONGRATULATIONS! YOU ARE NOW A HOME OWNER.

18. I will give you your final closing statement from escrow and possibly a check too, together with the keys to the home, TIME TO START MOVING IN!

Again, congratulations. Let me know when the movers are coming, I want to order you some take-out and something to drink, you are going to be too busy and besides, who has time to cook while moving.

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How to Get Rid of Fish Smell

Florida Lemon Laws Used Cars - How to Get Rid of Fish Smell.
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The smell of fish is something that lingers in the fishing boat, in the kitchen, the pots and pans, in your car, on your hands, in your clothes and anywhere else that is touched by the fish.

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How is How to Get Rid of Fish Smell

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It is not a pleasant smell for most people. I know there are those that say they grew up thinking that fish was supposed to smell like fish, but most find the lingering odor after the fish is long eaten to be unpleasant.

There are many home type remedies that are professed to work. Let me list some here for you to try.

1.) Wash or clean with a solution of vinegar and water.

2.) Wash or clean with a solution of bleach and water.

3.) If it is your refrigerator or freezer, empty it and turn it off. Place a container of boiling hot water with a sliced lemon in it. Leave for about an hour. Then make sure all the smelly ice is out of the freezer area and wipe down the walls and shelves with lemon water. Wipe each item thoroughly before replacing in the refrigerator or freezer.

4.) For the refrigerator or freezer, purchase vanilla-scented fridge deodorizer. It is supposed to kill the bacteria so it will put a stop to the odor for good, not just cover it up. Can be found in a good hardware store or supermarket.

5.) For a container, pots and pans or freezer, cut two potatoes and sprinkle some common table salt on it and place in the container for a couple of hours. Then wash thoroughly.

6.) Wash items with baking soda solution. 1-2 tablespoons of baking soda to 1 quart of water. Keep baking soda in the refrigerator or freezer where you normally store fish.

7.) For pots and pans try brewing some tea for 10-15 minutes. Discard and wash.

8.) For hands, etc. rubs hands with salt and then wash with a lemon scented soap or mild lemon detergent. Liberal use of nail brush at this time will also help.

9.) For clothes, give them a good soak in NappiSan or any other nappy/diaper soaker.

10.) For the fishing boat, body, clothes and children try "Simple Green". Usually can be found at your local supermarket.

11.) "Simple Green" can also be carried along on your fishing trip to clean the smell and residue of insect repellent and sunscreen from your flies or leaders.

12.) This one might take a while but is recommended as having worked. If you have had an ice chest leak in the car try covering with newspaper. This can also be used for the freezer problem. It takes a while for the newspaper to absorb the odor but it seems to do so.

13.) While cooking to reduce the fish smell in the area try heating a little bit of olive oil in a pan and adding cinnamon to it. The fish smell will give way to the sweet cinnamon smell.

14.) If you want to get rid of the fish smell before you cook it, soak the raw fish in a little bit of vinegar and a lot of water. Is should not affect the flavor in any way.

15.) For the microwave try soaking a wet dish towel with a squirt of dish detergent on it and then place it in the center of the microwave and run the microwave on high for a few minutes. The scented stem will clean it. Then let air for a few minutes.

Then there are also some commercial solutions. Here are a few you might want to try:

1.) Zielonka Smell Buster - made in Germany out of special high-grade stainless steel. The Smell Buster is supposed to neutralize odors as soon as it comes into contact with air and water, leaving it fresh and clean. Try an internet search to find it.

2.) Several companies manufacture a liquid concentrate which sells for about .00 for 1/4 to 1/2 ounce. A couple drops are put on a piece of cotton and placed in the area to absorb odors, in the cabinet or in a room.

A couple of brand names are: "Odor-Away" by Wrap-on Co., available at hardware and hospital supply stores and "Clean-Air" found at some appliance repair shops.

Hospital supply stores carry Dow Chemical Hospital Disinfectant and Deodorant Spray. Spray into cabinet and quickly shut the door.

Hope some of these solutions will work for you to get rid of the fish smell wherever it is a problem for you.

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Dentures Florida - How To Find Affordable Dentures In Florida

Florida Vehicle History Report - Dentures Florida - How To Find Affordable Dentures In Florida.
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The key to finding affordable dentures in Florida is to avoid buying dental insurance as a solution and focus on joining a discount dental plan instead. The reason for this is because any type of insurance, whether it's dental, health, auto, homeowners or whatever, is not going to pay for any condition that you already had at the time that you bought the policy. Think about this for a moment and you'll realize that what I'm telling you is true.

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Do you honestly believe that you could go into an insurance agency, spend 0.00 and go to the dentist for new dentures? Do you honestly believe that you could go into an insurance agency, have them do a physical walk around of your vehicle, noting the huge dent in the passenger door, and go in there next week and expect them to pay for that damage that was already there? I can promise you that it won't happen, just like dental insurance won't cover your dentures either, regardless of if you live in Florida or any other state.

The key to saving big money on dentures in Florida is to join a discount dental plan. Discount plans offer savings when you visit one of the providers within their network of dentists and can actually save you as much as 60% off the cost of new dentures, depending upon where you live. Here's an example of a discount dental plan at work in Florida.

This example is based on zip code 32210, the Jacksonville, Florida area.

This discount plan has 293 participating providers within a 50 mile radius of zip code 32210. The usual cost of an upper denture in Florida (this is based on national statistics from 2005. Costs may be more or less where you live) is 52.00. Your cost with this discount plan is only 0.00, a savings of 2.00.

The cost of joining this plan is only 9.95 for a family plan or only .95 for an individual plan. Deduct the cost of a family plan (9.95) from the 2.00 that you saved on your upper denture alone and you're still ahead by 2.05! This is only your first visit too. You and your family can have virtually unlimited savings for the next year or, if you're a single person, you'll simply save .00 more, for a total savings of 2.05.

So if you're in need of dentures and you live in the state of Florida, there are better ways to get big savings, rather than insurance. Go check out a discount dental plan in your area and start saving on your new dentures today!

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Lemon Laws For Used Cars: A Truncated Guide To Knowing Regulations

Florida Lemon Laws Used Cars - Lemon Laws For Used Cars: A Truncated Guide To Knowing Regulations.
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So, you've just purchased a car. It could be used or it might be new, but it's not working properly and you can't get around in it. The following article is designed to help you understand some aspects of the lemon laws for used cars. These types of laws work for you most if you have concerns within the first two years of you owning your car, and if you've driven it for less than 18,000 miles.

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How is Lemon Laws For Used Cars: A Truncated Guide To Knowing Regulations

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They were initially drawn up to cover customers who have purchased new cars directly from dealerships. Since then these regulations have been amended to include used cars as well as new ones. Also, many state laws have been implemented to help figure out if a used car is a 'lemon', these state laws have different regulations than laws set forth by the US Government. There is also federal law called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, but it can be very limited in scope and in compensation given to victims. Remember, if the dealership implies there is a warranty, every single one of the regulations with this warranty need to be heeded by the dealership. These terms require returning the buyer's money, replacing faulty parts, and also performing repairs. A majority of states have written more complex lemon laws, so it's crucial to investigate these if getting an inoperable car is a concern for you.

When buying a car from a dealership the car's window must feature a posting of this warranty alongside the buyers' guide. This warranty section needs to include the remaining portion of the warranty, or if the car is already out of warranty, then it has to state it is being purchased at the customer's own risk. Don't forget that lemon laws for used cars do not work if you are purchasing a car from an individual person instead of a dealership. These cars are always sold 'as is'. If you can't track down a specific regulation for used cars that satisfies your individual circumstances, there are additional laws which may still protect you. In these types of cases you might want to contact an attorney who specializes in lemon laws to guide you.

These kinds of legislation are made to protect the customer and by knowing your rights you will be in a better situation than you were before. Don't be afraid to make the claim with the car dealership and manufacturer as they all have tactics to keep you from doing so. You deserve the car you thought you were buying and one that runs is not asking for a lot.

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Consumer Protection in the Form of a Used Car Lemon Law

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Lemon law was created to protect consumers from faulty and defective automobiles. Used car lemon law refers to legal support to consumers from buying used cars that turn out to be lemons. According the used car lemon law, the dealer needs to provide a written warranty. The written warranty as per used car lemon law ensures that the dealer shall repair, free of charge, any defects in covered parts or, at the dealer's option, provide reimbursement for the reasonable costs of such repairs. If the dealer is unable to repair the car after a reasonable number of attempts, then according to the used car lemon law consumer is entitled to a full refund of the purchase price.

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How is Consumer Protection in the Form of a Used Car Lemon Law

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Several norms govern the enactment of the used car lemon law. Different states have different used car lemon law. Some states in United States do not enforce used car lemon law. Various norms for used car lemon law are that the vehicle should have been purchased, leased or transferred after eighteen thousand miles of operation or two years from the date of original delivery, whichever occurs earlier.

The vehicle under used car lemon law should also have been leased from the same state where the law is enforced. The purchase price of the vehicle under used car lemon law should have been purchased or leased at least at a price of 00. The vehicle should be primarily for personal use and should have been driven 100,000 miles or less at the time of purchase or lease.

According the used car lemon law it should be primarily for personal use or for the use of family or household purpose. Used car lemon law is not applicable to cars purchased from individuals or independent sellers.

Under the used car lemon law, a dealer is any person or business which sells or leases a used car after selling or leasing three or more used cars in the previous twelve month period. Banks or other financial institutions, except in the case of a lease, are not included. Similarly, a car purchased from a retail auto auction is also covered. In such a case the auction company should be registered with the Department of Motor Vehicles. During any sales by an auction company or the dealer, the seller must provide the lemon law warranty at the time or before the sale. In cases where a dealer fails to give you the written lemon law warranty, the dealer is nevertheless considered to have given the warranty and you are entitled to all the protections under the law.

The used car lemon law sets only the minimum obligation for the dealers. However, a dealer may choose to provide additional warranty or may limit the coverage of the vehicle under warranty. The exclusion may include service or repair asked for due to consumer negligence, vandalism negligence, collision, abuse or theft, etc. Exclusion can also be for motor tune-up or repairs asked if the odometer has been tampered. There can be other several exclusions depending upon the dealers warranty provided.

Different states have different contact points or toll free numbers where the consumer can obtain free information about used car lemon law. One needs to check out the contact numbers for a particular state where the used car lemon law needs to be enforced.

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What Florida Lemon Law Covers

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The Florida lemon law cover new and demonstrator vehicles and if they are leased, they are also covered. There is a list of vehicles that are not covered and they include trucks carrying more than 10,000 pounds, recreation vehicles, motorcycles and mopeds, vehicles purchased for resale and off road vehicles. If you are not familiar with the lemon laws, they are laws specially designed to protect those consumers who buy defective cars from car dealers and manufacturers. And in Florida, the laws are very active and they seek to deliver justice to every person who has been unfairly affected.

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How is What Florida Lemon Law Covers

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Therefore, if you find that your car is a lemon, you can follow the steps provided and you will achieve your desired goal. The first thing is to take your car to the repair shop and keep a record of every visit. You will eventually find that if it is indeed a lemon, there is no cure for it. Florida lemon law provides that you take the car at least 3 times. You are advised not to waste any time and the next thing you do is to notify the manufacturer through certified, registered or even express mail. The next step is to seek a solution through the arbitration programs and in the manufacturers' one, the two parties come together with a third party who will act as a mediator and take them through the dispute.

In Florida, these arbitration programs are very vital and are necessary before they can move to the next stage. The next is a state arbitration program where the New Florida Arbitration Board seats to come up with a solution to the case and if the lemon owner wins the case, they are given a refund or replacement and also, the other incurred costs are catered for. The consumer may be told to choose between a refund or replacement. Florida does not have a used car lemon law but, people with a problem can follow the same procedures and they can be helped without the need to quote from the Florida lemon law.

If you need to consult an attorney for more light on this, you can do so and, more detailed steps will be laid for you. On the internet, you can read the law and get to understand all the aspects pertaining to the Florida lemon law. You will also get to know vital information on consumer litigation and so many other topics about the lemon law. You can read this information courtesy of the Florida Attorney General's office. The Florida lemon law is a new law and it covers that vehicles I have Mentioned in the article. The things you should not forget are the documents that will support your case and they will include repair orders, warranties, purchase documents and others. It is vital that you keep them in a correct order to make the work easy. Therefore, if you live in Florida, you do not have to worry because of a lemon case because there is a solution thanks to the state lemon laws.

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Used Car Lemon Laws - Lemon Laws Help To Protect The Consumer

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Buying a new car is an exciting and interesting goal for most consumers. But this is all great if you were provided by your car dealer with a very functional vehicle. However, this does not happen all the time and to all car buyers. Unfortunately, some consumers are stuck with lemons. These are not the fruits that you know. When it comes to the car industry, lemons are those defective cars that are still sold by dealers and manufacturers. This is not right because those cars shouldn't have made it to the market in the first place. Good thing there are automobile lemon laws to help paying consumers fight for their rights and get what they deserve for their hard-earned cash.

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How is Used Car Lemon Laws - Lemon Laws Help To Protect The Consumer

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About These Laws

Don't you know what lemon laws are? First off, lemon laws are federal and state laws that aim to help automobile purchasers in the event that they have bought vehicles that have defects which they are not aware of at the time of purchase. In certain states, the lemon law covers both new and used cars. There are others that focus only on newly-released vehicles. You are in luck if your state has used car lemon laws. That's why you should check out your state's lemon law statutes first before making any moves.

How These Laws Work

Most people who are on a tight budget are buying used cars. If the original owner of the car that turns out to be a lemon didn't pursue his rights and didn't use the lemon law and just decided to sell that used car to another consumer, he is giving the latter a lemon without that person's knowledge. Things like this happens a lot and this puts the latter consumer into a very bad position because lemons are relatively unsafe and unusable, not to mention very expensive considering those repair costs that don't lead to any good result. That's quite frustrating. The consumer mentioned must learn about and make use of those used car lemon laws and get a good lawyer that specializes in these types of cases.

With used car lemon laws, a paying consumer can protect his rights and get the appropriate resolution he deserves in terms of the issue - be it a car replacement or a refund. But first, you have to determine if your used car is indeed a lemon because some car owners are exaggerating the minor problems in their vehicle. For instance, if you hear a funny noise whenever you drive but can still drive as normally as possible, then you don't have a lemon. Usually, if something is wrong with that used car of yours and that defect hinders the entire driving process, then most likely, you have a lemon. This should be the time for you to start looking for a trusted lawyer and gather useful documents that can be of great help to you such as receipts, warranty repair records, mileage and others.

If you have learned enough about your rights as a consumer when purchasing a new or used car but don't have a vehicle yet or are still planning to purchase one, then you know what to do in order to avoid buying a lemon. If it's possible, have your chosen car inspected by an independent car expert before you close a deal. Ask the dealer or the car owner for important documents such as warranty repair records and repair receipts. The used car lemon laws are here to help you out so don't ignore the opportunity.

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Sunshine State Seeing Yellow Thanks to Lemon Laws

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When people think of Florida, they think of the Sunshine State and their top agriculture product - oranges. However, it is the lemon law Florida enforces that makes vehicle owners see yellow. Lemon law attorneys are almost as abundant as the orange crop in Florida, so just remember them when you decide to seek any legal counsel. However, you can research your basic car lemon law just by browsing the internet or reading below for the highlights on your rights as a consumer when it comes to owning a car lemon.

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How is Sunshine State Seeing Yellow Thanks to Lemon Laws

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The late 1980's saw a new lemon law that holds car makers accountable, by particular situations of course, for refunding the purchaser's money or exchanging the problem vehicle with a new, comparable model. This law does not cover a used car lemon nor does it provide coverage for ATV vehicles, motorcycles, dirt bikes, motorized scooters or large trucks with a weight of over 10,000 pounds.

This lemon law Florida has also only covers new vehicles, either bought or leased in the state. There are very few exceptions. Defective operation or a major flaw in the car has to be present which would impede the safe use of the vehicle. You have heard that beauty is in the eye of the beholder? Well, the same goes when judging whether or not your vehicle has a legitimate defect.

The owner of the car has to have had wasted a lot of time taking the vehicle into the dealership or certified service provider, losing family time and possibly loss of wages due to missed work. Ok, so the lemon laws do not exactly say that, but that is the reality of it right? Technically, you had to have taken the vehicle in at least three occasions for identical problems or have had the car out of commission for fifteen straight days due to the flaw or defect.

Here is where it starts getting irritating. After all this time and aggravation of taking your vehicle in without the problems being fixed, THEN you have to fill out a form from the lemon law Florida handbook. You can state your grievances on there and describe your vehicle problems. The next step is mailing it straight to the manufacturer via certified or receipt mail and waiting for a response. (All this hassle almost makes you want to make lemonade with that car lemon, doesn't it?)

The manufacturer has ten days to pony up a response to your grievance. If you do not hear from them, then their rights are waived. Usually though, you will hear back from the manufacturer where they will direct you to yet another authorized service provider for another inspection of the alleged car lemon. Sounds like a lot of fun!

If you get disgusted with the entire process, do a search on the internet or ask around for some reputable lemon law lawyers that can fight the battle for you. Just be sure to keep track of all your repair receipts, any rental car fees due to your vehicle being out of commission and any other warranty work. Documentation is important to following any car lemon law. Good luck in your quest. Let's hope that you will soon start seeing green, the color of money instead of car lemon yellow!

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The World's Most Dangerous Dogs

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I imagine that there should be a piece on Animal Planet, the History Channel, et al, that needs a new angle: perhaps to uncover the world's most astounding, vicious, and dangerous dogs. After all they've covered everything else and they're probably running out of material. So it could be as I would depict it...The most dangerous dogs in the world. The show begins...

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How is The World's Most Dangerous Dogs

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...Our attention must focus on the world's most dangerous dogs. We will rank the danger dogs starting with the number 10 on the Dog Danger Scale.

10. The Sub Toy Chihuahua. Our experts consider it to be one of the most dangerous dogs in the world partially because of its extremely minute size. A Sub Toy Chihuahua attains an average height of 102 millimeters. When they bark as all Chihuahuas do, the pitch of their tiny barks is high enough to crack car windshields making the hapless driver unable to see oncoming traffic... often resulting in fatal accidents. For the reason that the deaths are almost always unintentional, we rate the Toy Chihuahua at number 10, yet still one of the World's Most Dangerous Dogs.

9. The number 9 position is held by the Pug. Often referred to as the Chinese Pug because of its prominence in Chinese History. In the past, many of the Chinese emperors had them as lap dogs; however, there is a darker side to the Pug. They were utilized initially as attack dogs to keep out the barbarians from entering to the Chinese side of the Great Wall. However, when placed in roles of high stress, i.e., attack, guarding, etc., the Pug ran and hid in nearby streams. Regardless, they were utilized by the Chinese primarily as attack dogs because that's all that they had at the time. In fact, the only way a pug would ever attack an armed barbarian was only in the unlikely event he had a piece of beef attached to his sleeve or shield. However, because the Pug was used historically as an attack dog despite, their battlefield incompetence, we have to rate them Number 9 in the Danger Dog Scale.

8. In the 8th Position is the Romanian Hockey Hound. So named because during the communist era in Romania, under a plan masterminded by Nicolae Ceausescu, the former megalomaniac leader, Romanian hockey coaches would train these usually docile dogs to attack any member of an opposing team that was hitting the puck. It was believed that the Hungarians had brain washed their dogs using a form of Veterinary Transference Psychology (VTP) into believing that a hockey puck was their master. As soon as the opposing team hit a puck, the dog was placed on the ice with specially fitted skates and would immediately attack the opposing team. This so spooked their competition that Hungary's team typically placed at least in the top 5 in the Olympics. Because this type of dog is not normally a menace to Hungarian society, but only aggressive when placed on the ice, we have to give the Number 8 ranking to the Romanian Hockey Hound.

7. Number 7 on the Danger Dog Scale is the Ukrainian Saint Bernard dog. Traditionally, Saint Bernards are known for saving downed skiers with a little bit of brandy and the ability to drag almost anything, including a NY City Bus down a mountain side. However, the Ukrainian breed has a very checkered past. They invariably find skiers and always attempt to rescue them, but because of their incredible clumsiness, the Ukrainian breed usually winds up causing an avalanche resulting in the death or maiming of the stricken skier. Because Ukraine has so few sizable mountains, and the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant meltdown has kept the mountain passes at a pleasant 73 Fahrenheit year round, the death toll is only a fraction of what it would be if these same dogs worked the Alps. When asked why they keep on using the Ukrainian Breed instead of the more sure footed Western European varieties, the Ukrainian Ski Patrol always answers this way, "Well...they're cheap!" accompanied with a shrug of their shoulders. For this reason and for the many deaths caused unwittingly by this dog, we place the Ukrainian Saint Bernard at the Number 7 ranking.

6. Number 6 on the Dog Danger Scale is held by the Mini-Schnauzer. While the miniature variety is completely non aggressive, they do have a dangerous side to them. When they meet a new person, they become so excited and joyful that they dance around crazily and almost always urinate on the ground. This is normally not a problem, but when indoors, they will typically only mess on tile floors or any other slippery surface. When the dog jumps around spreading its little puddle, it renders the floor dangerously slippery. There have been almost 1,100 fatalities attributed to the mini-schnauzer. Despite its sunny disposition, for this reason, the friendly little mini-schnauzer takes the number 6 Spot on the Dog Danger Scale.

5. The number 5 spot is occupied by the "Trick" Rapscallion Hound. It gets its name not by performing cute little tricks like rolling over or shaking your hand or other friendly antics. Rather, the Rapscallion Hound hails from the Island of Crete where the original inhabitants, who were mostly gypsies, cross bred a Turkish Elkhound with a Pomeranian and developed this strange breed of dog. While very intelligent, Rapscallions are furtive little dogs that tend toward being...just plain sneaky. The Gypsies used them as decoys in large cities and often would pose with a dagger in their hand in a threatening posture as if to kill the dog. Passersbys might see this 'cute' dog about to be killed and immediately come to its aid. The gypsy would then turn the knife on the hapless savior and rob him or her on the spot, with the dog being totally complicit in the crime. This behavior has, of course reached the 21st century with the dog owner now using a.357 magnum or other powerful handgun. (See illustration) While there have been no known fatalities resulting from this type of crime, the fact that the dog works closely and knowingly with his criminal master is enough to place the Rapscallion at the Number 5 place on the Dog Danger Scale.

4. The Four Spot belongs to the Plains Beagle. The Plains Beagle is very similar in appearance to the standard Beagle a' la the comic strip, "Peanuts", however, that is the only similarity. The Plains Beagle was originally the lap dog of the Norse Invaders, then called the Norse Imperial Beagle. During the 11the century, The Norse Men, under the leadership of Leif Erikson, purportedly made their way to North America and got as far west as what we now know as the Loop area in Chicago. When food supplies went low, The Norse exploration party attempted, out of desperation, to eat their prize beagles. Sensing danger, the beagles bolted and were lost in the green expanse of the mid west. Over hundreds of years, they formed small wolf-like pods and hunted down the wild mustang horses. When the Indians first saw the Plains Beagle, they mistook them for a friendly variety and attempted to house break (or more correctly, tent break them). It was Chief Left Handed Warrior of the LaPrinze Indians that first cursed them after being viciously bitten on his right hand. It is said today that the Plains Beagle is to the plains what the Piranha is to the Amazon. Legend has it that the Laprinz were almost completely decimated by the Plains Beagle, however this has not been completely substantiated by the western media outlets of the time. For their fierce reputation, they will take the Number Four Spot on the Dog Danger Scale.

3. The Number Three spot is held by the Micronesian Sea Lion Dog, a close relative, in appearance (only) to the Toy Manchurian Retriever. The Sea Lion Dog is a fierce predator not of ugly sea lions, but rather, seals. Micronesian Islanders wanted to maintain a vigorous tourism base on the idyllic island of Pohnpei and having wild dogs attack cute seals would definitely put a crimp on this area as a tourism destination. Therefore, they were able to convince the world that this predatory dog only hunted ugly Sea Lions. However, it is obvious that Sea Lion Dogs attack seals as their major source of food. When seals are not available, one would think that the dogs would go after Sea Lions. Wrong! Their second favorite dish is SCUBA divers. Maybe it's the taste of the neoprene rubber of their wetsuits or the suntan oil they rub on their skin while waiting to go to a dive site. Whatever it is, when you're diving in the South Seas, beware. In 1947 Jacques Cousteau refused to dive in the water referring to the menace of those "...devil dogs!" as the reason he wouldn't dive when the dogs were within 30 miles. We don't know how many deaths can be attributed to the predations of the Micronesian Sea Lion Dog, but whatever the number, it is will make this vicious predator Number Three on the scale of the world's Danger Dogs.

2. The Hot Dog. While actually not a real dog, but sort of a near food, the Hot Dog probably has taken more lives than all of the wars put together over the history of the world. I was starting to run out of dogs and I thought that the hot dog concept would fit. Do you have any idea what goes into the making of a hot dog? The ingredients of the average hot dog is more toxic than model airplane glue or cobra venom. However, when fiendishly blended together, stuffed into a brown red colored tube, the hot dog, while it tastes pretty good, is a lethal weapon. It was said that Mao Tse Dung, the former dictator of red China, suggested that China should ship over 11 billion tons of hot dogs to the U.S., Britain and Canada as a way of destroying the western powers, "...from the inside." Fortunately, the plan was never implemented. And so, we have to grant the lowly Hot Dog as the Number Two member on the Dog Danger scale.

1. We have to go back in time to on or about 730 A.D. to find the Number One Danger Dog of all Times. This brings us to that most infamous of all dogs on the Dog Danger scale. This would be the creature that Beowolf was really afraid of...Grindel. This monster may or may not be related to the dog or canine family at all, but it's pretty sinister that BeoWulf was really afraid of Grindel. Besides Beowulf seems to have some tie in with dogs himself. Anyway, Grindel was a ferocious monster of some kind. The heroic Beowulf was able to use a concoction similar to silly putty and wine to lure Grindel to a grassy knoll (historically a very dangerous place) and kill Grindel. However, let the reader by aware that prior to his death, Grindel killed nearly the entire populations of Iceland, Greenland and what we now know as Finland. He also ate most of the codfish, swordfish and sturgeon populations off the North Atlantic Irish coast.

If beef jerky were a fish swimming in those waters at that time, he would have eaten all of it. And if Beowulf hadn't stopped this creature, he probably would have killed all of the sailors in Western Europe, Asia and the Americas. The 8th Century world of Beowulf would be a much different place if this had occurred. And so we owe a debt of gratitude to Beowulf and hand over the Number One Spot on the Dog Danger Scale to Grindel, the most dangerous (possibly a) dog.

This wraps it up for the most dangerous, deadly dogs of the world. Often when we see the friendly little puppy, we can easily forget that behind that affable dog charm and friendly demeanor could possibly lurk a dangerous and bloodthirsty killer, the Danger Dog." Author's note: You dog may not be a dangerous dog, but he may smell and have fleas,,,ugh!! The way around that is to go to the orange-dogs web site that will help you to take care of these problems..

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Frequently Asked Questions About Becoming a Private Investigator

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How do I become a private investigator?

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How is Frequently Asked Questions About Becoming a Private Investigator

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That's a complicated question with several parts that largely depend upon in which state you plan on working. You have two options; you either work for a licensed private investigations agency or you go to work for yourself and obtain your own PI company license. Either way, you there are two considerations you must address at some point:

The first consideration is licensing; all but only a handful of states require a state-issued license to be a private investigator. Each state has different background, education and experience requirements that may vary from simply attending a state-approved training course to pre-licensing education, exams, years of work experience and obtaining a sizable professional liability insurance policy with "errors and omissions" coverage. To make matters just a little more confusing, there are some cities that require private investigators to either register or obtain a municipal license in states that do not otherwise require them.

The second consideration is training. Private investigation specific training is the most important investment you can make in yourself! Since most new PIs don't have the ability or are not ready to start up their own investigations company you will most likely be looking for employment with an established agency. As an owner of an established and well respected detective agency I get resumes all of the time; the first thing I look for before considering a candidate is to ask the question, "How has this person invested in themselves before asking me to invest in them?"

What if I do not have the minimum experience required by the state to obtain my own company license? How will I ever break into the industry?

If your goal is to eventually own your private investigations agency, no problem... every state that requires experience also has a program in place to see that new investigators have access to eventually obtaining their own license. For example, in Texas where we hold an agency license those who are too new simply go to work for an established company until they have the required number of hours to be able apply for their own license. In Florida (where we also have an agency license) they specifically provide internship licenses. Again, every state is a little bit different but thousands of successful private investigators are working today and tens of thousands have come before us; we all had to get started someplace... you can too.

Also, consider your own background and employment related experience carefully some of it may apply. I have known loss prevention agents, security guards (in specific roles), accountants, firemen, bail bondsmen, alarm installers, teachers, and even a librarian use their previous employment experiences to apply for their own agency license.

What type of training should I be looking into?

Any amount of training is great though most PI companies don't place a whole lot of credibility with the courses from PCDI, Harcourt, and Thompson Direct. You could honestly do much better and at less cost.

Instead, look for academies or training programs that have been created by private investigators. Who knows better about what a new or an aspiring private detective needs to know than an investigator who has been in the field for a considerable amount of time?

Also... look to see that the sponsoring company is active in the industry as well. Are they still providing regular private investigative services to a robust clientele? It's sad, but many PIs who wash out over a very short period of time in the business look to teaching. In reality, you will learn very little from those who could not make it themselves; success breeds success!

Lastly, I have a little secret I would like to share with you...

Look over the education provider's entire website and see if you find boastful claims or where the company is bashing other educators. This is a very tight-knit industry and you will find that students who complete training programs from educators that spend time "bad mouthing the competition" have a terrible time getting a break simply because of the animosity created through their educator's use of negative advertising. I know that seems unfair but it is a reality in this business. This does not mean, however, that you should dismiss the negative press but the first thing an excellent private investigator learns is how to evaluate a claim, identify the source and make a judgment based on additional facts and research. Some statements will have merit while others will not; it's up to you to make that decision.

What is the difference between a private investigator and a private detective?

Nothing. The terms are used interchangeably but some states choose to use the term "detective" while most use the term "investigator."

I really just want to help my friends and family to find old friends or people who owe them money. Do I need a PI license?

That's a great question. Generally speaking, in those states where it is a requirement you will need to obtain a license if you hold yourself out for hire or accept payment from another person or business and participate in or provide the following services:

o Surveillance

o Obtaining or furnish information related to a crime or the identity, habits, business, occupation, knowledge, movement, location, affiliations, associations,transactions, acts, reputation, or character of a person, group or company.

o Securing evidence for use before a court, board, officer, or committee

o Locating or recovering lost or stolen property and unclaimed funds.

o Determining the cause or responsibility for a fire, libel, loss, accident, damage, or injury to a person or to property.

Some states may specifically include such things as service of process, bail enforcement, personal protection and genealogical research under those activities that require a private investigator's license as well.

Do I have to have a degree in Criminal Justice from a college or university?

No, though some states may accept a degree in Criminal Justice, Administration of Justice or Police Sciences in lieu of the minimum experience requirements. One recent study conducted on behalf of the Virginia Department of Justice concluded that almost 57% of all private investigators do not have a college education.

If I do not have a college education do I have to have a background as a police officer or other law enforcement related profession?

No. Most private investigators do not have a law enforcement background before entering into this industry. It is true that many private investigators may have once had a career in criminal justice but the bottom-line is that private investigation and law enforcement is very different and my experience has been that very few who make the transition from law enforcement are prepared for this type of work, either technically or creatively, on their own. Most of them recognize this and seek industry specific training as well.

What type of person makes a successful private investigator?

This business requires a rare blend of logic and creativity; it's rare because logical people tend to not be very creative and vice-versa.

I would say that any successful detective must first have the ability to communicate. This means that he or she must have the ability to connect with people of all walks of life, regardless of economic status, ethnicity or education. It also means that the investigator must have the ability to clearly present a simple fact or a complex investigation in writing. The end result of an investigation is the investigative report, which is given to the client upon conclusion of the assignment; this is essentially our work product. If you cannot write reasonably well, your reputation will surely suffer as a result.

Secondly, great investigators have a burning desire to answer any question that is put to them only after a careful and determined effort to identify the facts and circumstances that contribute to a complete and unbiased explanation. We are in the business to provide facts, not opinions; we let our clients draw their own conclusions from our report. Oftentimes in order to get to those facts, we must be relentless in our pursuit of information. This is where logic meets creativity. Dead-ends often only require a different approach!

Lastly, I believe that every investigator should possess a varied set of experiences and knowledge. One characterization of the private detective industry I can make is that by and large we represent a vastness of experience, skills, and trades. One of the most accomplished investigators I have ever met listed "Mom" on her resume. When she decided to become a private investigator she had no appreciable skills that she could put in her resume but through her own experiences she had developed an intuition that was almost never wrong and she could simplify complex problems into there most basic parts. I have personally hired a plumber, building contractor, car salesman, and a host of other seemingly unrelated career types into my own company, CompassPoint Investigations, because they had certain intangibles that made them great in this business!

The bottom line is that anyone can train to become a wildly successful private investigator, just like one can train to become a barber or an attorney, but an aspiring detective has to bring some things to the table that cannot be easily taught: creativity, logic, the ability to communicate and an insatiable curiosity!

I have a criminal conviction in my background from many years ago. Will this affect my ability to become a private eye?

Every state that requires a license to be a PI also requires a background investigation as a part of the licensing process. I believe that a felony conviction will be an automatic disqualification in almost every instance (though I know a felon who has a PI license issued by the city of Columbus, MO.), while misdemeanors may be considered depending upon the crime, its seriousness and the amount of time that has passed since the conviction; again this will vary by state.

Will my military discharge affect my ability to become a private investigator?

In some cases a discharge that is anything but honorable may prevent you from becoming a PI. Just as in the answer to the criminal conviction history above, some states require PI applicants be free from negative military discharge classifications- Bad Conduct Discharge, Less than Honorable or Other Than Honorable service characterizations are grounds for denial of a PI license in several states and jurisdictions.

Perhaps the Florida Division of Licensing put it best: "Private investigators and private investigative agencies serve in positions of trust. Untrained and unlicensed persons or businesses, or persons not of good moral character, are a threat to the public safety and welfare. The private investigative industry is regulated to ensure the interests of the public are adequately served and protected."

Can I just specialize in a particular type of investigation or will I have to do the surveillances and cheating spouse investigations too?

I absolutely recommend that investigators find their niche and specialize in only a few types of investigations! There are several important reasons for this, which I discuss in my training programs, but it can be summed up this way: when you are the most notable investigator in your region of the country for a specific type of investigation, you will find MANY additional opportunities to make a lot more money than if you advertise yourself as a "jack of all trades." This has been proven across the country time and time again and is a major topic of discussion in our upcoming private investigation marketing manual.

What types of assignments do private investigators typically take?

Wow, the options are endless and the subject really deserves its own entire section! I have listed the most obvious types of private investigator assignments in an article you can find by going to my Articles Page. I will eventually briefly describe each type of investigation in the next couple of weeks. Continue to check in as we are constantly making additions.

What type of investigation or specialty assignment pays the most?

I don't know that anyone can answer that question definitively, but I will say that surveillance is typically the most lucrative type of assignment a private investigator can get because it is solid, billable, blocks of time. I am aware that there are particular types of investigations where investigators are making anywhere between 0 and 0 an hour for activities like forensic computer evaluation, security consulting, automobile repossession, and a few others specialties. I personally have made ,000 in an hour on several occasions in 14 years doing bail fugitive recovery work, those types of paydays are few and far between. Overall I average almost 0 an hour while engaged in bail enforcement, not too bad by most people's standards, though many investigators just don't have the stomach for that type of work. It can be extremely dangerous, it is a very competitive field and you get paid only if you can complete the case.

Is private investigation dangerous work?

Obviously, there are some PI jobs that are more dangerous than others like collateral repossession or bounty hunting but, generally speaking, private investigation is not a dangerous job. We all have heard the stories of PIs getting caught while on surveillance by an irate cheating husband or being chased out of a yard at the business end of a shotgun while serving a subpoena. Most episodes of Magnum PI had Tom Selleck dodging bullets, too. Certainly, scary things can and do happen on rare occasions but like all war stories, the ones that seem to get a lot of attention play out more like fiction than reality. Safety is always at the forefront of every trained investigator's mind.

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Autocross Buying Guide - Select the Right Car

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In my experience, autocross can be a very fun and exciting sport. I have participated in several events in my local area. I found the hobby to be very addictive as well.

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Out of all my other hobbies, I think this one is the best "bang for the buck" as far as thrills go with your car. Everybody can participate. Every car (some clubs have exceptions to this though like no SUV's, no Trucks) can race. The nice thing about this kind of race is that you are competing against others in your class usually defined by the SCCA, however, you are on the course alone so there is minimal chance of hitting other cars.

The hardest part about autocross (aside from learning how to race) in my opinion is finding the right car. Sure, you can use a daily driver, but that is not recommended if you are going to participate in several events a year. Autocross can create wear on the tires and other components very quickly and can get expensive very fast. I would recommend to get a vehicle that you can use for autocross. This can be a "trailer car" or a car that you can still drive on the road, but use only for this hobby.

There are 4 key components to consider when selecting a car for autocross:

1) What type of car to get
2) The Price of the car
3) The overall condition of the vehicle (if used)
4) Aftermarket upgrades/modifications

WHAT TYPE OF CAR TO GET FOR AUTOCROSS:

For autocross racing, some people would assume that the car has to be very powerful, small, 2 doors and modified. This is not entirely accurate. While that type of car would be nice, it is not required to be competitive in autocross.

Remember that most autocross events and clubs have the cars grouped in to some sort of class. The club I participate with follow the SCCA Class guidelines. The classes help group the cars so the same "level" of vehicles can remain competitive within each class.

This is done to avoid the "biggest and fastest is best" state of thought. It would be unfair to put a heavily modified Porsche GT3 up against a stock Ford Focus. This is why they do that.

So, to pick the right car for autocross, you would probably want a coupe or convertible FIRST if possible. Sedans can work well too, but some sedans are not geared for modifications, although, the sport sedans of today are really starting to take over.

Manual transmission would be recommended, however, if you have an automatic that is OK too. You may want to consider trading it for a manual in the future to remain competitive. Again, there are still "sport shift" type automatics out there that are getting better and better each day.

Ideally, you would also want a rear-wheel drive car for autocross. RWD cars typically provide better control and handling in most cases. I know some enthusiasts out there will disagree with me, but that's OK. On the other hand, I have used several front-wheel drive cars that run with the best of them.

PRICE:

The price of buying a car for autocross is always the factor for me. I, like many others, cannot afford an expensive vehicle for autocross. There are, however, those that can afford it and price is still something for them to consider.

The -00 range:

This is the range most of us beginners want to start. Of course, free is GOOD, but consider the 3rd component (overall condition) when this option comes to mind. Several cars that can perform well and have a lot of upgradable options are the following:

1989-1997 Mazda Miata - Very nice power to weight ratio. It is VERY popular at autocross. 1979-1991 Mazda RX7 - Fast small car, handles well. Many upgrades available. 1989-1998 Nissan 240sx - Several aftermarket upgrades, handles very well. 1990-1999 BMW 3 Series - Very versatile car. You can find very nice models in this range now. 1988-2000 Honda Civic/CRX - I have seen several models compete well in autocross. 1984-1999 Toyota MR2 - Low center of gravity, great performance, mid engine. 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon - Many upgrades, some models Turbo AWD. 2000-2007 Ford Focus - Very competitive cars. SVT models available in price range. 1997-2003 VW Golf - Hatchbacks always like autocross. VR6 models available in range. 1990-1999 Acura Integra - Like the Civic, very competitive with many upgrades out there.

There may be a few more cars that I missed that fall under this price range. The method I use to hunt for cars can vary depending on the type I am looking for. I will use local classified ads, Craigslist. I will also use the bigger car searches and expand my general "hunting" area. I have successfully found great cars using VEHIX, AutoTrader as well as Government Auction Sites.

But what about the autocross cars above the 00 range? Well, I am glad you are think that because I am about to list them below.

If you have some money to work with and want to get something newer, you can consider the following cars:

The ,001-,000 range:

This range can include newer cars as well as pre-owned cars that are no more than a few years old. Remember, cars usually depreciate very fast, so as the years go by, some of the newer cars can be within reach for less money and are great for autocross. The cars below come to mind in this range:

1998-Current Mazda MX-5 - Still same basic car, but more power as they got newer. 2003-Current VW Golf - Even more modified than the previous versions, compete well. 1992-1997 Mazda RX7 - 3rd Gen is twin-turbo and can compete in autocross. 1992-2006 BMW M3 - M3's are designed for racing. Some newer models will fall in this range. 1998-2003 BMW M5 - M5's are very powerful and compete in their class well. 1994-Current Ford Mustang/Cobra - Very versatile car. Competes well in class. 1994-2002 Camaro/Firebird - Competes well in class. Many autocross upgrades. 2007-Current Mazda Mazdaspeed3 - Turbo, hatchback, competes well in autocross. 2003-2008 Nissan 350z - Great autocross car, very popular on the track. Special Autocross Kit cars such as the V6 Stalker fall in this range as well.

Now, this price range can vary in vehicles. A lot of these cars are still new and may require loans to purchase them.

The ,001 spectrum will consist of some of the current-day models as well as the obvious "super cars" we all respect such as the Corvette, Viper, Porsche, Ferrari, Lotus and others. I will not include a list for those because if you are buying one of those for an autocross car, you did your research.

OVERALL CONDITION OF THE VEHICLE (USED):

When buying a second car for autocross, treat it like when you are buying your daily driver car. You want the car to be relatively free of major problems. Autocross racing can put stress on the car's frame, the suspension, the brakes, the tire and the overall body of the car.

You want to be sure that the car has not been in any major accidents. Frame repair or frame damage can be very dangerous mixture when you autocross. That is the MOST important thing to check for when buying a car for autocross. I have experienced and used the service by Experian called AutoCheck. They offer an unlimited number of VIN checks for one of their service options and the price is way better than the other services out there. I have used it when shopping and comes in very handy when you are checking the history of a vehicle.

The next important item to check on the car is major component problems such as smoke coming out of the back of the exhaust, major oil leaks (small leaks are expected on most used cars) slight/major overheating of the engine. Autocross is outside and you push the car to the limit. You want the major components to be in the best shape they can be. The mentioned problems can leave you stranded at the track if you do not look out for them.

I usually have some expectation to do minor repair or preventive repairs on my vehicles when I am buying to autocross them. As I stated above, small oil/fluid leaks are "OK" and can usually be fixed very easily. Small leaks tell us that the car is just used and may not be suffering from the leak as a result. Large/major leaks tell us the car may have been neglected by the previous owner and may carry residual problems unseen at the moment. When looking at a car, start it up, drive it around with the A/C engaged (even if it doesn't work). When you are finished with the test drive, leave it idling while you walk around the car continuing to inspect it. If the car has an overheating problem, often this is the time it will show. This tip has helped me avoid several beautiful autocross cars that had an overheating problem.

Belts and hoses are my most frequent "preventive" repair I do, even if they are not a problem. It is always best to know when an important component has been replaced rather than to "guess" and trust the previous owner. Water pumps, too, fall in this category sometimes.

One thing people always check when buying a used car are the tires. Yes, this is important for an autocross car, but not to see how "good" the tires are, but to see if the car needs an alignment. Autocross is about handling and you need to be sure the car's stock "handling" ability is where it should be.

Why not worry about the tires? Well, tires should be one thing to consider buying for your autocross car to begin with, so the existing tires should be removed anyway. Tires are probably the most bought wear item an autocross member will buy. A lot of autocross racers will bring a set of tires for racing, one for driving home (those who do not use a trailer) and some will even bring spares for the racing tires. This is so common that Tire Rack offers tires just for autocross. I have used them and they are the best place to get tires for this.

AFTERMARKET MODIFICATIONS FOR AUTOCROSS:

If you ever look into the aftermarket world of the auto industry, you know that there are literally thousands of places to look and buy. I will list a few spots that most people do not think to look, but surprisingly have things for the autocross fans.

First and foremost, autocross cars do NOT always need major upgrades to be competitive. A driver can use a stock vehicle and compete against fellow stock vehicles and remain competitive. Once you start to modify or upgrade heavily, you may start to move into different classes and compete with other cars that are equally modified. Keep that in mind when you want to change something.

Usually, I say modify the easy things first: Intake, exhaust and general tune ups. Most autocross drivers do not go far from that. These should be the first things you try to upgrade while you participate in autocross to get the most performance out of your vehicle.

If you decide to go further to be more competitive, my next recommendation would be suspension and body roll modifications. Please remember, certain upgrades in this area may change your class. Be sure to check your club or groups rules with these modifications.

Usually, the fastest upgrade to an autocross car would be front and rear strut tower bars/braces. They are usually inexpensive to buy and easy to install. They are also very modular meaning that when you buy these, they will work with other suspension components in place (usually). This modification helps stiffen the car's suspension and frame and helps with cornering.

The next modification recommendation would then be the front and rear sway bars and links. These parts also help the body roll while cornering and handling and can sometimes be modular to the suspension system as a whole.

The final suspension upgrade is usually the most expensive: The struts (shocks/springs). This upgrade usually works well with the above items, but ads more stiffness, more response to the handling and sometimes lower the car overall for a lower center of gravity.

Once you have modified the entire suspension, my next recommendation would be to upgrade the brakes (at least the pads). This will help your stopping ability for those moments where a tap of the brake is needed during a lap. Please keep in mind that high performance brake pads usually wear much quicker than OEM.

One of the last things I recommend to upgrade is the tires. Now, I'm not saying that you should not FIRST buy new tires when you autocross, but I am saying not to UPGRADE them to an autocross/race tire just yet. Most autocross enthusiasts will tell you to get used to the stock/regular tires on your car first.

Once you get used to stock type tires, modifying them to a race tire or softer tire will actually improve your lap times (that's the theory anyway).

One last note. I recommend replacing the fluids in your car with as many synthetics as you can. Synthetic fluids have higher heat resistance and can take the intense moments you will be putting on the car during the autocross laps.

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